Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
