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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.